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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.